Ultimate Guide to the Vintage Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust is the quintessential do-it-all watch, with its ability to teeter on the line between casual and formal. A vintage Rolex Datejust represents many collectors’ first step into the world of vintage watches. Not only are these watches revered for their heritage and quality, but they tend to hold their value, if they don’t appreciate, which makes them an easier pill to swallow when purchasing your first luxury watch.
In this guide, we’ll be looking at some of the most popular men’s references of vintage Rolex Datejusts and their similarities and differences. Although the Datejust was released under various references through the decades in 26mm, 28mm, 31mm, and more recently 41mm, we’ll be focusing specifically on the 36mm offerings here.
4-Digit Vintage Datejust 36 References 4xxx, 5xxx, 61xx, 63xx
The first Rolex Datejust was released in 1945 and featured a coin-edge bezel and a domed, bubble-back case. Because of this, these early references are often referred to as “bubblebacks”. Though it’s commonplace now, this was the first self-winding watch to display the date of the month through a window on the dial.
These early Datejusts featured a date wheel with alternating red and black numbers, known as a “roulette” date wheel. The “cyclops” over the date window was added in 1953. Many earlier references do not have “Datejust” on the dial, just “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” below the Rolex coronet and “Chronometre” or “Officially Certified Chronometer” above 6 o’clock.
Notable References
4467: First series, 18k gold case
6105: Two-tone or gold case
6305: Steel, two-tone or gold with fluted or engine turned bezel
6309: “Thunderbird” bezel
Specs
Period: mid-1940s to mid-1950s
Movement: Caliber 740 Automatic (non-quickset)
Crystal: Acrylic, some with Cyclops
Lume: Radium
4-Digit Vintage Datejust 36 References 66xx
In approximately 1956, the 66xx model was released which introduced the slimmer case many are more familiar with. While the bubbleback measured 15mm thick, these new references measure closer to 12mm. The “Datejust” name is now featured prominently on the dial.
This is among the rarest of Datejusts given its short production span of approximately 3 years between 1956 and 1959.
Notable References
6604: Smooth bezel
6605: Fluted/engine turned bezel
Specs
Period: 1956-1959
Movement: Caliber 1065 Automatic (non-quickset)
Crystal: Acrylic with Cyclops
Lume: Radium
4-Digit Vintage Datejust 36 References 16xx
The 16xx is probably the most popular group of vintage Datejusts as they are typically the most affordable. With a large production run and an improved movement, they make a great entry point for vintage collectors. This was the last Datejust offered with the “pie-pan” dial design.
Notable References
1600: Smooth bezel
1601: White gold fluted bezel
1603: Stainless steel engine turned bezel
1607: Yellow gold model
Specs
Period: 1959-1977
Movement: Caliber 1560 or 1570 Automatic (non-quickset)
Crystal: Acrylic with Cyclops
Lume: Radium or Tritium (1963+)
5-Digit Vintage Datejust 36 References 160xx
The 5-digit 160xx reference makes subtle improvements over its predecessor 16xx with a 3035 movement with quickset date. This functionality is a major quality-of-life upgrade for most. The watch still retains its vintage proportions and qualities, such as the acrylic crystal. This makes the 160xx one of the most popular vintage Datejusts as it has the bonus of more modern practicality.
Notable References
16000: Smooth bezel
16013: Two-tone with gold fluted bezel
16014: White gold fluted bezel
16030: Stainless steel engine turned bezel
16018: Yellow gold model
16078: Yellow gold model
Specs
Period: 1977-1988
Movement: Caliber 3035 (quickset)
Crystal: Acrylic with Cyclops
Lume: Tritium
5-Digit Vintage Datejust 36 References 162xx
One of the last true “vintage” models, the 162xx offered major upgrades with its new robust 3135 movement. The watch also came equipped with a sapphire crystal for the first time. Rolex began using higher-grade 904L steel for their watches, and later into this reference’s production run, tritium lume was replaced with LumiNova beginning in the late 1990s, and Super-Luminova beginning in 2000.
This was the last reference to retain the vintage Datejust proportions before Rolex moved to the 6-digit references and redesigned the cases with fatter lugs and revamped bracelets. Rolex offered a number of references with different attributes during this run.
Notable References
16200: Smooth bezel
16203: Two-tone smooth bezel on oyster bracelet
16220: Stainless steel engine-turned bezel
16233: Two-tone with gold fluted bezel
16234: White gold fluted bezel
16018: Yellow gold model
16238: Yellow gold model (successor to 16018)
16248: Yellow gold bark finish bezel and bracelet
16250: Turnograph bezel
Specs
Period: 1989-Early 2000s
Movement: Caliber 3135 (quickset)
Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops
Lume: Tritium, LumiNova (Late 1990s+), Super-LumiNova (2000+)
